Tow Ropes, Tubes and Watersports Gear: Inspect, Rig and Retire

Pull the whole rope through a rag, end to end. You are feeling and looking for:

• Fraying, fuzzy or cut spots, and broken strands
• Knots (a knot can greatly weaken a rope; untie any you find, and retire the rope if it will not come out cleanly)
• Hard, stiff or faded sections from sun damage
• Melted or glazed spots (from rubbing on the boat or a hot engine cover)
• Worn loops, splices and the connection to the handle

Rope is cheap compared with an injury. Replace it when you find any of the damage above, when it is badly faded or discolored, or when you cannot remember how old it is and it has spent years in the sun. Tube ropes take the heaviest loads, so be strictest with them. A frayed rope "that still looks mostly OK" is a common question from owners, and the safe answer is to retire it.

• Grip: cracks, torn or slippery rubber, exposed foam or metal
• The bar: bends or cracks (on aluminum and composite handles)
• The bridle (the V-shaped rope from the handle to the main line): wear where it rubs the bar
• The connection to the main rope: tight, not frayed, with any hardware closed and not bent

Inflate to the firmness the maker specifies. Airhead says a towable should be very firm, with almost no wrinkles in the nylon cover. An under-inflated tube drags through the water instead of skimming over it, which overloads the tube, cover, rope and even the boat, and can burst the bladder. Then check:

• Cover: tears, worn seams, broken zippers
• Bladder: leaks (listen and feel), valve caps present and closed
• Rider handles: securely sewn, knuckle guards in place
• Tow point on the tube (quick-connect or tow hook): not cracked or pulled from the cover

Patch small punctures and worn seams before use, as SCHEELS advises; a tube with a failing tow point or rider handles should be retired.

• Never put more riders on a tube than it is rated for. West Marine points out there are only enough handles for the rated number, and HO Sports warns that exceeding the weight limit can damage the tube and make it unsafe.
• Use a tube rope rated for the number of riders and their combined weight. A two-rider rope on a four-rider tube can break.
• Tube ropes are commonly 50 to 65 feet long. A shorter rope puts the tube in the wake.
• Do not use bungee or stretch "shock" ropes unless the tube maker approves them.

Look at the tow eyes, ski pylon or tower before each season and after any hard pull:

• Nuts tight and hardware not bent
• No cracks in the gelcoat or deck around the base (a sign the backing plate is working loose)
• From inside the boat, if you can reach, backing plates and nuts in place and not corroded

Use only the tow points your boat's owner's manual approves for the activity. A tower or pylon may be rated for ski and wakeboard ropes but not for the much heavier pull of a multi-rider tube. Never tie a tow rope to a cleat, railing, bow eye or the outboard motor.

• Attach tube ropes to an approved transom tow eye, or to a tow harness (a Y-shaped bridle across both transom eyes) if your tube maker recommends one.
• Make sure every connection is fully closed and the rope cannot jump off.
• Keep slack rope out of the water and away from the propeller when starting off and picking up riders. Never back the boat over a rope.
• When you are done, pull the rope in right away; a rope trailing in the water can wrap the prop.

• Life jackets: the Coast Guard recommends that anyone being towed wear a properly fitted, approved life jacket, and many states require it. BoatUS notes inflatable life jackets generally do not meet the rules for towed sports, and "competition vests" do not meet Coast Guard requirements.
• Spotter: many states require an observer whose only job is to watch the rider; some allow a wide mirror instead, and minimum spotter ages differ. Even where it is not required, BoatUS recommends always having one.
• Flag: as of BoatUS's 2025 review, 15 states required a skier-down flag (a bright red or orange flag about 12 inches square) shown when someone is in the water.
• Capacity: the boat's capacity plate must cover the driver, the spotter and everyone being towed. On a personal watercraft, check whether your state requires a seat for every rider.

• Agree on hand signals before you start (faster, slower, stop, OK, cut the engine).
• Keep speeds reasonable for the activity and the rider; BoatUS cites roughly 8 to 20 mph as a common range for tubing. Go slower for children.
• Avoid sharp turns. A tube swinging wide on a turn ("whip") can go much faster than the boat and slam into other boats, docks or waves.
• Stay well away from shore, docks, swimmers and other boats. Where there is no rule, BoatUS suggests at least 200 feet.
• Wear the engine cut-off switch lanyard.

Approach a fallen rider slowly, keeping them on the driver's side where you can see them. Shift to neutral well before you reach them, and turn the engine off before they come near the stern or swim platform. Never let anyone sit on the swim platform or "teak surf" behind a running engine; carbon monoxide builds up there.

• Rinse ropes, handles and tubes with fresh water, especially after salt water.
• Let ropes dry completely, then coil them loosely and store them out of the sun.
• Clean tubes with mild soap and water only; harsh chemicals damage the vinyl and cover.
• Do not leave an inflated tube in the hot sun on shore. Airhead notes the heat makes the air expand; let some air out and keep it in the shade.
• Deflate, dry and store tubes indoors in a cool, dry place, away from sharp objects. Carry them; dragging over gravel or concrete wears the cover.

At the start of each season, repeat steps 1 to 6 carefully and replace anything doubtful before the first busy weekend. At the end, wash and dry everything, throw out worn ropes rather than storing them, and note in your BoatMend log what needs replacing next spring.