How to Repair or Repaint Worn and Cracked Non-Skid Decks

Walk the deck slowly and tap with a mallet or screwdriver handle, especially around stanchions, cleats, hatches and the mast step. A dull thud or a spot that flexes underfoot means delamination or wet core. Look for cracks radiating from hardware and for rust or water stains. Mark everything with tape. Any soft or wet area gets fixed before you touch the non-skid.

Cracks and soft spots around fittings usually mean water has been getting in. Remove and rebed those fittings (see deck-hardware-rebedding) and fill unused holes properly (see filling-old-screw-holes). Otherwise your new non-skid will crack again in the same spot.

Open each crack with a V-shaped scraper or a small rotary bit so the filler has something to grip, clean it, and fill with gelcoat paste or epoxy filler as described in gelcoat-repair. Long cracks that keep coming back mean the deck is flexing there; that's a job for a fiberglass pro. Sand repairs flush.

• Molded patch: best for small damaged spots in a pattern that's otherwise in good shape and has never been painted.
• Paint with grit: best for large worn areas or decks covered in old patches. Lasts several years, then gets recoated.
• Textured gelcoat: a long-lasting option for bare or heavily repaired decks, used by restorers. It takes more skill and wax-free gelcoat. Good Old Boat warns that polyester gelcoat won't reliably stick to epoxy repairs unless you use a tie-coat made for that purpose.

The steps below cover the first two, which suit most owners.

Flexible non-skid molds are sold in common patterns; you may also be able to make your own mold from an undamaged part of the deck (Practical Sailor described a kit for copying a good section of your own pattern). Epoxyworks says these molds work best when the pattern hasn't been painted and is free of dirt, so clean it thoroughly. Coat the surrounding non-skid with release wax, wiping on and off, and spread it well beyond the repair: gelcoat tends to migrate.

Remove the damaged pattern down only to the depth of the pattern, not deeper. Put the mold on the deck and shift it until it locks into the surrounding pattern. Tape one end and roll the mold back. Pour catalyzed gelcoat matched to your deck color (see gelcoat-color-matching) near the repair. Slowly roll the mold forward, keeping it locked into the pattern, and press it from behind with a stiff spreader to squeeze out the excess. Epoxy can be used instead of gelcoat, but it then needs painting.

Let the gelcoat cure fully before peeling the mold. Brush away the thin film of excess gelcoat around the patch with a stiff brush. Done well, Epoxyworks says, the patch is hard to spot. Wash off the release wax afterward with the cleaner your gelcoat maker recommends; wax left on non-skid is slippery.

For painted non-skid, follow the paint maker's system exactly. A typical sequence: scrub with a non-skid cleaner, rinse and dry; wipe with the maker's solvent wash/de-waxer using clean rags often; sand to scuff the whole area (the pattern's peaks and valleys) and remove anything loose or failing; vacuum; and solvent-wipe again. Old peeling coatings and old pads must come off completely. Wear a mask and use dust extraction.

Most boats have smooth margins around the non-skid areas: along the toe rail, around hatches, fittings and the cabin sides. Mask them with fine-line tape for crisp edges. Keep margins smooth so water can drain and you can clean them. Remove or mask hardware. If tape will stay on in the sun for more than a day, use a UV-resistant tape.

Many non-skid paints need a specific primer over bare gelcoat, sanded fiberglass or repairs. Interlux, for example, lists a primer for its ready-mixed non-skid deck paint. Use what your paint maker specifies; mixing brands of primer and topcoat is a common reason paint peels.

You have three ways to get grip:

• Ready-mixed non-skid deck paint: stir thoroughly (the grit settles) and apply as directed. The grit-to-paint ratio is already right.
• Mix grit into the paint: add the maker's non-skid compound to its deck or topside paint at the ratio on the label, and keep stirring as you work. Practical Sailor found premixing gave a much more even texture than sprinkling. Rolling spread the grit more evenly than brushing; don't overwork the surface or the grit bunches up.
• Broadcast method: roll on a coat, sprinkle grit evenly onto the wet paint with a flour sifter or shaker, let it dry, brush off the loose grit, then roll a second coat to lock it in. Interlux describes this approach (it lets the first coat dry overnight before removing the excess) and says heavy sprinkling doesn't make the deck any less slippery. When the compound is mixed into the paint instead, Interlux says there's no need to sand between coats.

Test your method on a scrap panel first so you can judge texture, color and how rough it feels on bare feet and knees. Coarse grit grips better but scuffs skin; fine grit is gentler but grips less.

Remove masking tape while the last coat is still soft, pulling it back over itself at a low angle, so you get a clean edge instead of a torn one. Check your paint's instructions for timing.

Keep everyone off the deck until the paint has cured per the label, and longer before heavy traffic or putting gear down. Fresh paint can feel dry to the touch long before it's hard enough to resist scuffing.

Walk the deck wet and dry and check that grip is even. Clean the new surface with mild boat soap and a soft-to-medium brush. Never wax or polish non-skid paint or patches. Recoat painted non-skid when wear spots appear, before it's back to bare gelcoat. Log the paint brand, color and grit in your BoatMend boat profile.