Repair & maintenance guides

How to Test and Clean Your Bilge Pump and Float Switch

Make sure your bilge pump actually moves water overboard, both on the manual switch and automatically through the float switch. A working bilge pump is one of the most important safety systems on any boat that stays in the water.

How to Test and Fix Your Boat's Navigation Lights

Learn which navigation lights your boat must show and when, then test them and fix the usual culprits such as corroded sockets, loose pole-light plugs and blown bulbs. Working lights are legally required at night and in poor visibility and are how other boats see which way you are heading.

How to Test and Replace the Engine Thermostat

Find, test and replace the thermostat that controls your engine's operating temperature. A stuck thermostat can make an engine overheat or run too cold. On most outboards and many sterndrives it is a one-hour job with basic tools.

How to Touch Up Paint and Corrosion on an Outboard or Sterndrive

Bare aluminum on a lower unit or sterndrive corrodes fast, especially in salt water. Learn how to find the cause, clean off corrosion, prime and repaint with the right products, and what must never be painted, such as anodes and sensors.

How to Troubleshoot Dash Gauges, a Dead Tachometer or a Wrong Fuel Gauge

Work through dead or wrong dash gauges from the cheapest check to the most involved: fuses and breakers, power and ground, the gauge-versus-sender test, the tachometer's pulse setting and the extra checks for digital network gauges. Most gauge problems turn out to be a bad connection, not a bad gauge.

How to Upgrade Your Boat's Lighting to LED (and Keep Your Nav Lights Legal)

Switch cabin, cockpit and courtesy lights to LED to cut battery drain and bulb changes, choose navigation lights that are actually USCG-certified (not just LED bulbs), check voltage range and dimmers, seal every connection, and run the Coast Guard's simple VHF test to make sure the new lights aren't deafening your radio or AIS.

How to Use a 1-2-Both Battery Switch and Run Two Batteries

Learn what the 1, 2, Both and Off positions really do, a simple routine that keeps one battery ready to start the engine, how to check that both batteries are charging, and when an automatic charging relay makes life easier. Rewiring high-current cables is a job for a marine electrician.

How to Use an Oil Extractor Pump for Boat Oil Changes

Change engine oil cleanly through the dipstick tube with a manual or electric extractor: know which engines it suits, warm the oil first, get as much out as you can, then refill to the dipstick, recycle the old oil and clean the pump so it's ready next time.

How to Winterize a Sterndrive (MerCruiser, Volvo Penta and Similar)

Get the water out of your sterndrive engine, protect it with antifreeze, and service the drive before storage. A cracked block or manifold from one missed drain plug can cost thousands, and doing it yourself saves a shop bill of several hundred dollars.

How to Wire a 12, 24 or 36-Volt Trolling Motor and Charge Its Batteries

Set up the battery bank for your electric trolling motor the right way: matched deep-cycle batteries in series or parallel, a circuit breaker sized from the motor maker's chart, a proper plug, and a multi-bank charger that keeps every battery healthy. High-current wiring that runs long distances or ties into other systems is a job for a marine electrician.

How to Wire a Bilge Pump Correctly (Automatic Float, Panel Switch and Fuse)

Wire your bilge pump so the automatic float works even with the battery switch off, the helm switch gives you a manual override, and every circuit has the right fuse, wire size and connections kept above the bilge water. A pump that is wired wrong can leave the boat unprotected exactly when nobody is aboard.

How to Wire a Marine Stereo, Speakers and Amplifier Safely

Install or fix a boat stereo the way that keeps it working and keeps your battery alive: marine-rated gear, a fused feed from the panel, a solid ground, a plan for the always-on memory wire, UV-proof speakers, and an amplifier fused right at the battery. Plus how to stop the stereo from messing with your VHF and compass.

How Water Gets Into Boat Fuel (and How to Stop It)

Water in the fuel is one of the top causes of rough running and dead engines, and it almost always has an entry point you can find. Work from the jar test through the fill cap O-ring, a recessed deck fill, the tank vent, the sending unit gasket and your washdown habits, and learn how much condensation really matters.

Hull Blisters (Osmosis): How to Tell Cosmetic Pimples From Serious Pox

Learn what osmotic blisters are, how to inspect a fiberglass bottom at haul-out, which blisters you can fix yourself with epoxy, what moisture meter readings can and can't tell you, and when to hire an independent surveyor.

Hull Potential Survey: Checking Corrosion Protection with a Reference Electrode

A silver/silver-chloride reference electrode and an ordinary multimeter show whether your underwater metals are really protected by their anodes, whether every fitting is bonded, and whether shore power or the slip is upsetting things. Learn how to take the readings, what under- and over-protection mean in plain terms, and when to call a marine electrician or corrosion specialist.

Hydraulic Steering: Check Fluid, Bleed Air and Fix Stiff or Loose Steering

Check the fluid in your hydraulic steering helm, bleed out the air that makes steering spongy, and track down the usual causes of stiff, loose or noisy steering. Includes notes for boats with mechanical cable steering.

Ignition-Protected Parts: Why Car Starters and Alternators Don't Belong in a Gas Boat

On a boat with a gasoline inboard, sterndrive or generator, every spark-producing part in the engine space must be ignition protected so it can't set off fuel vapors. Learn what the term means under 33 CFR 183.410, which parts need it, how to read the markings, why cheaper automotive parts are dangerous, and how to check what's already in your engine compartment.

Inboard and Sterndrive Engine Mounts: Signs of Failure and How to Inspect Them

The rubber mounts under an inboard or sterndrive engine soak up vibration and hold the engine in line with the drive. Learn the warning signs of a failing mount, how to inspect all of them in under an hour, and why a mount replacement always ends with an alignment check.

Inflatable Boat and Dinghy Care: Cleaning, UV Protection, Leaks and Storage

Keep your inflatable or RIB tender holding air for years. Rinse and clean it the right way, protect the tubes from sun, check pressure with a gauge, find slow leaks with soapy water, service the valves, patch small holes with the correct glue for PVC or Hypalon, and store it clean and dry.

Inflatable Life Jacket Care: Inspect, Test and Rearm

An inflatable life jacket only saves a life if the cylinder is full, the inflator is armed and the bladder holds air. Learn the quick check before every trip, the overnight leak test, how to read replacement dates and how to rearm it after it fires.

Inheriting a Boat: Title Transfer, Coast Guard Documentation, Insurance, Taxes and Keep-or-Sell

What to do when a boat comes to you from a relative's estate: secure it and keep it insured, find out how ownership passes (joint owner, transfer-on-death, probate or a small-estate affidavit), transfer a state title or a Coast Guard documented vessel, deal with the trailer, liens and taxes, and decide whether to keep or sell. General information, not legal or tax advice.

Installing a DC-to-DC Charger: Charging a Lithium or Second Battery Bank from Your Engine

A DC-to-DC charger lets the engine's alternator refill a lithium (or separate) house bank with the right charge profile while protecting the starting battery and the alternator. Learn why you need one, where it can and can't be mounted, how the fusing and cable sizing work, and which settings matter, so you can plan the job or check a technician's work.

Internet Near Shore: Cellular Routers, Signal Boosters and Marina Wi-Fi Extenders

For boats that stay within sight of land, a cellular router, a legal signal booster or a marina Wi-Fi extender can be a cheaper alternative to satellite. Learn which one fits how you boat, why antenna placement and cable length matter, the FCC rules for boosters, how much power they use and how to test that it actually works.

Is My Engine Charging the Battery? Test the Charging System With a Multimeter

A step-by-step way to find out whether your outboard's stator and rectifier/regulator or your inboard's alternator is really charging the battery, what the voltage readings usually mean, and when the problem is just a dirty connection. Exact test specs come from your engine's service manual.