Repair & maintenance guides

How to Remove and Apply Boat Names, Graphics and Registration Decals

Take off old vinyl names and graphics without scratching the gelcoat, clean up the glue and the "ghost" outline, then apply new lettering straight and bubble-free, and display your registration numbers the way federal rules require.

How to Repair or Repaint Worn and Cracked Non-Skid Decks

Bring back grip where the molded non-skid is chipped, cracked, patched or worn smooth. Choose between a molded patch that copies the original pattern, non-skid paint with grit, or textured gelcoat, fix the cracks and soft spots underneath first, and mask for clean, safe edges.

How to Repair or Replace Vinyl Flooring on a Pontoon or Bowrider

Fix small tears, lifted seams and bubbles in marine vinyl or woven vinyl flooring with the right adhesive, tell when a soft spot means the plywood underneath is rotting, and understand what a full floor replacement involves. Structural deck and stringer repairs are pro work.

How to Repair or Replace Your Boat's Rub Rail

Replace a torn rub rail insert or the whole rail, reseal the hull-to-deck joint and its fasteners while the rail is off, and stop the deck-joint leaks that often hide behind a worn rail.

How to Repair Small Gelcoat Chips and Scratches

Fill and blend small chips, dings and scratches in your boat's gelcoat with a repair kit so they stop letting water into the fiberglass and look close to new. Also learn to spot damage that is structural and needs a pro.

How to Repair Torn-Out Canvas Snaps, Fasteners and Zippers

Fix snaps that have pulled out of your bimini, cover or enclosure, reinforce the torn fabric, choose the right snap metal and setting tool, free stuck snaps, replace Lift-the-Dot and twist fasteners, and swap a worn zipper slider.

How to Replace Boat Battery Cables the Right Way

Swap corroded, cracked or undersized battery cables for tinned marine cable sized from a chart for its real length and load, with crimped lugs, adhesive heat shrink, terminal boots, solid support and a fuse close to the battery.

How to Replace Cleats, Eyes and Brackets on a Riveted Aluminum Boat

Swap or add cleats, tie-down eyes, rod holders and accessory brackets on an aluminum boat without starting corrosion or new leaks. The keys are isolating stainless from aluminum, picking the right rivet or bolt, and spreading the load.

How to Replace Folding Boat Seat Hinges and Fix Back-to-Back Seats

Fix flip-up seats, fold-down fishing seats and back-to-back lounge seats that sag, jam or rip loose. Replace rusted or bent hinges with stainless hardware, rebuild a rotten plywood base so the new screws actually hold, and adjust the latches so the seat stays put.

How to Replace Gas Struts on Boat Hatches, Seats and Consoles

Measure, buy and fit the right gas struts (lift supports) so hatches, seat lids and console doors stay open safely instead of dropping on your head or fingers.

How to Replace Marine Speakers (Including Tower Speakers)

Pick replacement speakers that fit the cutout, match your stereo or amplifier's power and impedance, survive sun and spray, and don't throw off your compass. Then wire them with the right polarity and seal them so water can't reach the back.

How to Replace or Re-Cover a Bimini Top

Decide whether you need new canvas or a whole new top, measure your frame the right way, pick a fabric that will last in the sun, check the frame and hardware, and swap the canvas yourself or brief a canvas shop.

How to Replace the Carpet on a Pontoon Boat

Strip worn pontoon carpet and old glue, check the plywood underneath for rot before it gets covered again, choose between marine carpet, snap-in carpet and vinyl, then glue, trim and finish the new floor so it lasts. Most owners need a few dry weekends; soft or rotten decking is a bigger job.

How to Run New Wires Through a Boat (Chase Tubes, Pull Lines and Deck Penetrations)

Get a new transducer cable, light or power wire from the stern to the helm or up through the deck without a fight: use the chase tube and a fish tape or pull string, protect the wire from chafe and heat, support it every 18 inches, seal every penetration and label both ends.

How to Sea Trial Your Boat After Maintenance or Repair

A step-by-step test run after service work: dock checks first (leaks, fluids, steering, kill switch), then a gradual climb through the RPM range while you watch temperature and pressure, a wide-open-throttle check against your engine's spec, shifting and trim tests, and a bilge check afterward. Catch a loose clamp or a missed step at the dock, not miles out.

How to Size a House Battery Bank: Load List, Usable Capacity and Charging

Work out how many amp-hours your boat really uses in a day, how much of a battery's rated capacity you can actually use with lead-acid, AGM or lithium, how much reserve to add, and how your charging sources change the answer, so you buy the right house bank the first time.

How to Size, Rig and Inspect Dock Lines and Fenders

Pick the right dock line diameter and fender size for your boat, set up bow, stern and spring lines in a slip, add chafe gear, inspect for wear and UV damage, and double everything up before a storm.

How to Spot and Prevent Corrosion on an Aluminum Boat

Aluminum hulls and pontoon tubes are tough, but they lose almost every fight with other metals. Learn the warning signs of galvanic and stray current corrosion, keep copper and loose metal away from the hull, choose the right anodes, touch up paint with the proper primer and know when a repair needs a welder.

How to Tell if Your Boat's Flotation Foam Is Waterlogged

Learn the signs that the foam under the floor or seats of a small boat has soaked up water, how to check without tearing the boat apart, what the Coast Guard flotation rules mean for you, and why replacing foam is usually a big job for a pro.

How to Test a Marine Diesel Lift Pump (Feed Pump): Flow Test, Vacuum Gauge and Warning Signs

The lift pump pulls diesel from the tank through the primary filter and feeds the injection pump. When it weakens, the engine starts hard, loses power or dies. Learn how to find it, tell a mechanical pump from an electric one, check it with the priming lever, run a simple flow test into a clear container, read a vacuum gauge on the primary filter, and spot a leaking diaphragm before it fills your oil with fuel.

How to Test and Clean Your Bilge Pump and Float Switch

Make sure your bilge pump actually moves water overboard, both on the manual switch and automatically through the float switch. A working bilge pump is one of the most important safety systems on any boat that stays in the water.

How to Test and Fix Your Boat's Navigation Lights

Learn which navigation lights your boat must show and when, then test them and fix the usual culprits such as corroded sockets, loose pole-light plugs and blown bulbs. Working lights are legally required at night and in poor visibility and are how other boats see which way you are heading.

How to Troubleshoot Dash Gauges, a Dead Tachometer or a Wrong Fuel Gauge

Work through dead or wrong dash gauges from the cheapest check to the most involved: fuses and breakers, power and ground, the gauge-versus-sender test, the tachometer's pulse setting and the extra checks for digital network gauges. Most gauge problems turn out to be a bad connection, not a bad gauge.

How to Upgrade Your Boat's Lighting to LED (and Keep Your Nav Lights Legal)

Switch cabin, cockpit and courtesy lights to LED to cut battery drain and bulb changes, choose navigation lights that are actually USCG-certified (not just LED bulbs), check voltage range and dimmers, seal every connection, and run the Coast Guard's simple VHF test to make sure the new lights aren't deafening your radio or AIS.