Repair & maintenance guides

How to Repair Small Gelcoat Chips and Scratches

Fill and blend small chips, dings and scratches in your boat's gelcoat with a repair kit so they stop letting water into the fiberglass and look close to new. Also learn to spot damage that is structural and needs a pro.

How to Repair Torn-Out Canvas Snaps, Fasteners and Zippers

Fix snaps that have pulled out of your bimini, cover or enclosure, reinforce the torn fabric, choose the right snap metal and setting tool, free stuck snaps, replace Lift-the-Dot and twist fasteners, and swap a worn zipper slider.

How to Replace Cleats, Eyes and Brackets on a Riveted Aluminum Boat

Swap or add cleats, tie-down eyes, rod holders and accessory brackets on an aluminum boat without starting corrosion or new leaks. The keys are isolating stainless from aluminum, picking the right rivet or bolt, and spreading the load.

How to Replace Folding Boat Seat Hinges and Fix Back-to-Back Seats

Fix flip-up seats, fold-down fishing seats and back-to-back lounge seats that sag, jam or rip loose. Replace rusted or bent hinges with stainless hardware, rebuild a rotten plywood base so the new screws actually hold, and adjust the latches so the seat stays put.

How to Replace Gas Struts on Boat Hatches, Seats and Consoles

Measure, buy and fit the right gas struts (lift supports) so hatches, seat lids and console doors stay open safely instead of dropping on your head or fingers.

How to Replace or Re-Cover a Bimini Top

Decide whether you need new canvas or a whole new top, measure your frame the right way, pick a fabric that will last in the sun, check the frame and hardware, and swap the canvas yourself or brief a canvas shop.

How to Replace the Carpet on a Pontoon Boat

Strip worn pontoon carpet and old glue, check the plywood underneath for rot before it gets covered again, choose between marine carpet, snap-in carpet and vinyl, then glue, trim and finish the new floor so it lasts. Most owners need a few dry weekends; soft or rotten decking is a bigger job.

How to Spot and Prevent Corrosion on an Aluminum Boat

Aluminum hulls and pontoon tubes are tough, but they lose almost every fight with other metals. Learn the warning signs of galvanic and stray current corrosion, keep copper and loose metal away from the hull, choose the right anodes, touch up paint with the proper primer and know when a repair needs a welder.

How to Tell if Your Boat's Flotation Foam Is Waterlogged

Learn the signs that the foam under the floor or seats of a small boat has soaked up water, how to check without tearing the boat apart, what the Coast Guard flotation rules mean for you, and why replacing foam is usually a big job for a pro.

How to Test and Clean Your Bilge Pump and Float Switch

Make sure your bilge pump actually moves water overboard, both on the manual switch and automatically through the float switch. A working bilge pump is one of the most important safety systems on any boat that stays in the water.

How to Use a Pump-Out Station: Finding One, Hooking Up and Rinsing the Tank

Find a pump-out near you with state maps and free apps, hook up to the deck fitting without spills, rinse the holding tank, leave the station clean for the next boat and know the rules for no-discharge zones and mobile pump-out boats.

Hull Blisters (Osmosis): How to Tell Cosmetic Pimples From Serious Pox

Learn what osmotic blisters are, how to inspect a fiberglass bottom at haul-out, which blisters you can fix yourself with epoxy, what moisture meter readings can and can't tell you, and when to hire an independent surveyor.

Ice Makers and Drinking-Water Dispensers on Boats: Cleaning, Filters and Winterizing

Keep onboard ice and drinking water clean and tasting good. Sanitize and descale the ice maker, change filters, keep the condenser breathing, fix common faults, and drain and bypass everything before freezing weather.

Impressed Current Corrosion Protection on Yachts: How It Works and How to Keep an Eye on It

Larger aluminum and steel yachts often use an impressed current system instead of, or alongside, sacrificial anodes. Learn what the control panel, anodes and reference electrodes do, how to log and double-check the readings with a portable reference cell, why over-protection can strip paint and attack aluminum, what to do at haul-out, and when to call a corrosion specialist.

Inflatable Boat and Dinghy Care: Cleaning, UV Protection, Leaks and Storage

Keep your inflatable or RIB tender holding air for years. Rinse and clean it the right way, protect the tubes from sun, check pressure with a gauge, find slow leaks with soapy water, service the valves, patch small holes with the correct glue for PVC or Hypalon, and store it clean and dry.

Livewell, Baitwell and Washdown Pumps - Clean, Troubleshoot and Winterize

Find out why a livewell or washdown pump runs but moves no water, from a closed valve or clogged pickup to an airlock, then clean the system and winterize both sides of every pump so nothing cracks over the winter.

Marine Head and Holding Tank Care: Odors, Clogs, Pump-Outs and Winterizing

Keep your boat's toilet and holding tank working and odor-free, clear common clogs, pump out the right way, and winterize the system. Also covers the Y-valve and the federal no-discharge rules every owner with a head needs to follow.

Marine Sealants Explained: 5200, 4200, 4000UV, Polysulfide, Silicone and Butyl Tape

Pick the right sealant before you bed a cleat, a through-hull, a window or a transducer. The wrong goo either leaks in a year or glues a part on so hard you damage the boat getting it off.

Marine Vinyl Stain Removal: Ink, Sunscreen, Grease, Mildew and Pink Stain

A stain-by-stain plan for boat seat vinyl that follows your vinyl maker's own cleaning list, starts with the mildest method, and keeps you away from the products that strip the protective top coat, rot the stitching or crack the vinyl.

Marine Water Heater Care: No Hot Water, Relief Valve, Anode and Winter Draining

Most boat water heaters warm up two ways: a 120-volt electric element at the dock and a coil that borrows hot coolant from the engine underway. Learn the safe owner checks when the hot water quits, what a dripping relief valve means, and how to drain and bypass the tank for winter.

Mounting Hardware Where You Can't Reach Behind: Blind Fasteners

Learn how to mount light accessories on a boat when you can't get a hand behind the panel, using blind rivets, rivet nuts, well nuts, toggle anchors and bonded studs, when to cut an inspection port instead, and what must never be held by a blind fastener.

Oil or Fuel in the Bilge: Safe, Legal Cleanup

What to do when you find oil, diesel or gasoline in your bilge. Soak it up with oil-only absorbents, keep it from being pumped overboard, dispose of it properly, report any sheen on the water to the National Response Center, and find the leak so it does not happen again.

Outrigger Care: Poles, Halyards, Release Clips and Bases

Keep your outriggers strong and working by rinsing them after every trip, checking poles, halyards, pulleys, release clips and through-bolted bases for wear and corrosion, storing them down and secured, and handling them safely under way and near power lines.

Protecting a Docked Boat: Mooring Whips, Bumpers, Fender Boards and Chafe Gear

Set up your dock or slip so wakes, wind and tides don't grind your hull against it, using mooring whips, dock bumpers, fender boards, spring lines and chafe gear, and know what these can and can't do in a storm.